Max Mara Resort 2020
Fashion shows of cruise collections at off-site venues have become a trend among fashion houses. This season, Christian Dior traveled to Marrakech, Prada presented its new collection in New York and Max Mara went to Berlin. The fashion house organised an exclusive show of its Cruise Collection 2020 at the Neues Museum.
Around 180 guests, including the chief editors of international glossy magazines, influential people from the fashion world, VIP clients and socialite, enjoyed the fashion show, followed by an exclusive dinner in a chamber setting.
The German capital was chosen for a reason. This year, the world celebrates the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, which marked not only the reunification of Germany, but also the revival of the great city. In addition, Berlin, in the 1980s, was the cherished dream of Max Mara brand creative director Ian Griffiths. Last June, he hit the press with an impressive collection of contemporary art that fills his headquarters near Bologna. Griffiths is a fan of modernism and the art and architecture of Berlin in the 20th century.
The show was held on the marble staircase of the museum building, which was destroyed during the Second World War and brought back to life in 2009 by a British architect.
Marlene Dietrich and David Bowie
The inspiration for the multi-layered images was the icon of style – a Hollywood actress of German origin, Marlene Dietrich. Her images are dressed in wide trousers with raw edges, transparent shiny turtlenecks, voluminous coats and austere, but seductive costumes.
“I always worshiped Marlene”, Griffiths said after the show. “She was such a bold person, and she is very similar to David Bowie. They both had some kind of mysterious gender fluidity. It’s very close to Max Mara: the idea of playing male and female. We always did it.”
The show is full of images of Marlene Dietrich and David Bowie, embodied in a flared cut of clothes brought to perfection – oversized and flowing fabrics, not baggy, jackets with soft shoulders, palazzo trousers and capes with a narrow waist.
Classic costumes, decorated blouses, oversized jackets and minimalism in accessories, the presented images are ideal for a comfortable stay. The collection includes the beloved Marlene wide trousers and coats made of cashmere and wool. Designers of Max Mara moved away from excessive volume and shifted focus to the waist: trousers and leather bombers tucked in, tightly tightened with belts and focusing attention on it.
The star of the collection can surely be called the “Berlin coat”. Impeccable cut, pure alabaster shade, accentuated shoulders and neatly sewn flowers – in its features, at the same time, one you may see the worship of the magnificent architecture of the city and admiration for exquisite Meissen porcelain.
Max Mara uses its favourite technique – monochrome total looks, in chocolate, wine, pearl and creamy shades. Dramatic red, embodied in classic costumes and long coats, is a surge of brightness among the restrained nude shades, adding a collection of the spirit of modernity.
It is worth paying attention to the shoulders of models, studded with delicate petals, to the weighty jewellery in the form of gold plates resembling antique, inspired by the artefacts of the Berlin Museum, and to the long leather belts. Some jewellery items resemble the products of the German porcelain factory Meissen, which dates back to 1710.
“Life is a cabaret, pal,” Liza Minnelli sang in Christopher Isherwood’s movie Cabaret. On the eve of his show, Griffith invited guests to Ballhaus Clärchens, where legendary singer and actress Ute Lemper staged a performance in honour of Marlene Dietrich, an exclusive cabaret evening in a typical 1920s Berlin ballroom.