International Salon of Haute Horlogerie in Geneva (SIHH) is probably the most important exhibition of achievements of master watchmakers from around the world. The most complex, the most refined, the most extravagant and, of course, the most expensive watches of the last quarter-century are on show, demanding public attention. This year’s participants come from 24 renowned companies. We present to you five of the most memorable watches of the women’s and men’s collections.
Panerai Lo Scienziato — Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Gmt Titanio
Manufacturer “Laboratorio di Idee” introduced the latest development in their collection of watches: the skeletonized tourbillon “Lo Scienziato”. It is dedicated to the genius of Italian physics, mechanics and astronomy — Galileo Galilei. The “Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Turbillon GMT Titanio” was released as a limited edition of only 150 copies. The new watch is surprisingly light weight, despite the presence of features such as a second time zone with 24-hour indication, an LED 6-day power reserve as well as (on the back of the watch) the tourbillon fiscal year. The watch case (47 mm) is made of titanium, but to facilitate the model, what has also been applied is innovative technology, where a custom-made special recess forms an extremely complex geometric cavity inside the body without compromising water resistance (up to 100 m), strength or resistance to stress or strain. The watch comes with an alligator strap in anthracite, which harmonises perfectly with the titanium case.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Manufacturer “Audemars Piguet” presented an updated version of the watch with a perpetual calendar, known as the “Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar” model. It is made of steel or pink gold, which differs from its predecessor. There is an oversized casing (c 39 mm to 41 mm) as well as an updated dial and running gear.
From other models with a perpetual calendar, it differs by the fact that what appears as well is the week of the year. The corresponding scale is applied on the outer perimeter of the dial. Innovation is valuable for people whose work interests are connected with Europe (where the fiscal year is divided into weeks). Dial-date models can be silver or dark blue, but whatever colour it is, it is decorated with a pattern brand “Grande Tapisserie”. The steel version price in Europe is ˆ 61,100. For the luxury model with a gold case, you will have to pay ˆ 95,900.
Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso Tribute Calendar
The company “Jaeger-LeCoultre” introduced a new model of the iconic collection “Reverso”, made in the style of Art Deco. Watch “Reverso Tribute Calendar” is the most difficult of those submitted by the manufacturer. They are available exclusively in 18-carat pink gold (dimensions — 49.4 x 29.9 mm, thickness — 6.12 mm). The model is equipped with a classic full calendar and moon phase indicator on the front side and a stylish graphic quality indicator day/ night on the background of anthracite dial on the back side. As a special feature, there is a button equalizer for 6 hours, which becomes noticeable only when the body gets out of its cage. Most watches of the new collection will be available in combination with alligator straps of different colours (depending on the model) and a folding clasp. Experts estimate the cost of the model will exceed 20,000 Euros.
Cartier Cle De Automatic Skeleton
Watchmaker house “Cartier” has presented a new model of “Clé de Cartier Automatic Skeleton” — this is the first model of the brand that is self-winding.
The round case of the novelty is made of palladium (dense white metal of the platinum family), with a diameter of 41.0 mm and it is waterproof up to 30 metres. The model is equipped with a Swiss automatic movement (Cartier 9621 the MC) and has a diameter of 31.0 mm with two winding drums, a three-day power reserve and indication of hours and minutes functions (through the relevant central hands). The role of the dial is to perform delicate bridges of the original form of the mechanism. At appropriate places, they are numbers in the form of Roman numerals “III”, “VI”, “IX” and “XII” and the bridge between them serve as time codes for the intermediate time values. The front mechanism is protected by sapphire glass. Watch “Cartier Clé de Cartier Automatic Skeleton” is combined with an alligator strap in black. The price in Europe is € 60,000. Also, connoisseurs will be presented a more luxurious version with inlaid diamonds, costing about 99,000 Euros.
Iwc Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55
Watch “Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55” has a casing with a diameter of 55 mm. It is the modern incarnation of “Big Pilot’s Watch” from the 1940s. Fans will be pleased not only with the impressive dimensions of the new models, but also their unique appearance. The unusual performance of the dial, the luminous colour figures that form minute hands in the form of propellers, the conical crown and the leather straps are all part of the mystique. Bringing you back to those first aircraft hours, you feel the energy of that era of aviation pioneers. At the same time, in front of you, there is a masterpiece of modern technology; a watch from IWC.
Putting on the wrist the “Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55”, you can be sure of at least one thing: these watches make an impression. The watch case is made of a modern material — titanium. Minute scale, Arabic numerals and minute hands in the form of propellers are made, as in the original, in beige tones. Released in a limited edition of 100 copies, the model “Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55”, with its 55 mm diameter, will please collectors and lovers of the original aircraft hours alike.
Roger Dubuis Velvet Secret Heart
One of the great luxury women’s new products presented at the Geneva Watch Salon is the model “Velvet Secret Heart”. It is addressed to women aspiring to excellence, not only externally, but also internally. The complex mechanism with bi-retrograde display is hidden behind the elegant design that combines simplicity and charming femininity. The bright blue watch dial is surrounded by two rows of diamonds inlaid in the outer and inner bezel. Diamond chains, in turn, round the numbers on the scale/pointer date. The barrel, which is made in the form of housing, furnishes elongated Roman numerals and an hour scale resembling a precious vase, which stores an invaluable resource — time. The bi-retrograde dial frees up space, allowing you to highlight its attractive femininity. Complementing the luxury novelty is leather matching, in tone, the dial.
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ronde Des Papillon
Especially for the SIHH-2016 master, “Van Cleef & Arpels” have created a mechanism with a retrograde hours counter, minute counter with variable speed and animation. The “Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons” (from the collection “Poetic Complications”) show times on an ever-changing dial and the dial is surrounded by a diamond bezel and a white gold case. It is 38 mm in diameter, with a real animated picture showing clouds and hiding swallows and butterflies. Spinning in the dance between the clouds, butterfly minutes set the pace, while the hour counter “comes to life” with the beating of wings of the swallow – the messenger of good news.
Piaget Altiplano Rose
Legendary ultra-thin watches “Altiplano” (only 38 mm) are the embodiment of artistic excellence from “Piaget”. For the International Salon of Haute Horlogerie 2016, the watch house proudly introduced two new creations: a mosaic of wood marquetry and mother of pearl, as well as engraving on gold, adorning three new models of “Altiplano” from “Piaget”. Rose, the favourite flower of the founder of the brand (Yves Piaget), appears on the face of “Altiplano Rose”, attracting the attention of connoisseurs. Models of “Altiplano Wood Marqueterie” are made by hand by an independent master of marquetry — Rose Sanya, who collects rose from 96 elements made of wood. On the creation of one of the 8 patterns, engraving on the pink gold is done by Master Dick Stimana and it takes up to 25 hours. These creations perfectly embody the “Piaget” dedication to appeal and elegance.
Richard Mille Rm07-02 Pink Lady Sapphire Automatic
The latest novelty “Richard Mille”, created for the ladies, is the model “RM07-02 Pink Lady Sapphire Automatic”. In these unique watches, we see a combination of femininity and the most advanced technology. Named in honour of a new cocktail popular in the 1930s among high society women, its attractive housing is a barrel composed of three parts, which are made of a single piece of sapphire pink.
Sapphire is known as a very durable material. It is not “afraid of scratches”. The production of all three parts of the body (the bezel, the body of the ring and the back cover), with adjustments and polishing, takes up to 40 days. The body is made of red gold and adorned with diamonds and combined with a white alligator strap. Price, in an effort to match all of the exclusive models of the brand, is around ˆ 900,000.